Brazilian Fish Stew with Manioc Polenta and Preserved Peppers Sauce

MOQUECA, PIRAO, MOLHO DE PIMENTA
Brazilian Fish Stew with Manioc Polenta and Preserved Peppers Sauce (BRAZIL)

This quintessentially Bahian meal was contributed by Yara Roberts.

A piece of salmon is laying on ice.

MOQUECA, PIRAO, MOLHO DE PIMENTA Brazilian Fish Stew with Manioc Polenta and Preserved Peppers Sauce

Cook's Notes: Another extraordinary Brazilian fish stew, this one uses a whole netful of fish. The manioc flour is cooked into a savory mush with the fish cooking liquid. You have some leeway in choosing what kind of fish you'd like to cook up (the Brazilians prefer the cheaper, oilier varieties like bluefish and mackerel), but pick varieties of approximately equal size so they'll all be done at the same time. Any good fishmonger will sell you the fish parts for the stock, but order ahead to be sure. Moqueca is definitely party fare, as it cannot be made for fewer than eight hungry people.

FISH STOCK:

  • 5 pounds fish heads, scraps, or bones (non-oily varieties such as cod, snapper, or scrod), in any combination
  • Shrimp shells from 1/2 pounds medium shrimp (see Moqueca, below)
  • 1 medium onion, quartered
  • 1 garlic clove, crushed through a garlic press
  • 4 scallions, chopped
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 3 parsley sprigs
  • 1½ quarts water

MOLHO DE PIMENTA:

  • 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
  • 1 tablespoon chopped hot red peppers preserved in vinegar (see Note)
  • 3 tablespoons minced onion
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

MOQUECA:

  • 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
  • 6 garlic cloves, minced
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 pounds fish steaks, (such as cod, kingfish, bluefish, or mackerel), cut 1 inch thick
  • 1½ pounds medium shrimp, shelled and deveined, shells reserved for stock (see above)
  • 1 pound large sea scallops
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • 1 medium green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 4 scallions, chopped
  • 2 cups Fish Stock (see above)
  • 6 plum tomatoes (about 1 pound), peeled, seeded, and chopped, or 1 (14-ounce) can peeled plum tomatoes in juice, drained and chopped
  • ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
  • 1 cup coconut milk (see page 197)
  • 2 tablespoons palm oil (optional; see Note)
  • ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 12 mussels, well-scrubbed and debearded
  • ½ pound fresh crabmeat, picked over to remove cartilage
A book cover with several different types of food.

NOTE: Preserved peppers in vinegar, palm oil, and manioc flour are available at Latin American and Brazilian markets.

  1. Make the fish stock: In a 5-quart Dutch oven or soup kettle, combine the fish parts, shrimp shells, onion, garlic, scallions, bay leaf, and parsley. Add the water and bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the top. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer until reduced to about 5 cups, about 2 hours. Strain the stock and discard the solids. Set aside.
  2. Make the molho depimenta: In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, peppers, and onion. Let stand for at least 1 hour, then mash to a paste. Whisk in the olive oil, and set aside.
  3. Make the moqueca: In a large mixing bowl, combine the lemon and lime juices, two thirds of the garlic (4 cloves), salt, and pepper. Add the fish steaks, shrimp, and scallops, toss to combine, and cover. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour, but not more than 2 hours.
  4. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large stockpot. Add the onion, bell pepper, scallions, and the remaining 2 cloves of garlic. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until well softened, about 10 minutes. Stir in the 2 cups fish stock, tomatoes, and cilantro, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1 hour.
  5. Puree the vegetable-fish stock mixture in a food processor or blender. Return the sauce to the stockpot and stir in the coconut milk, optional palm oil, and cayenne. Bring to a simmer over medium heat.
  6. Place the fish steaks, shrimp, and scallops in the sauce, along with their marinade, and arrange the mussels on top; bring to a simmer. Cover, and simmer until the mussels have opened and the fish is cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the crabmeat, remove from the heat, and cover tightly to keep warm while making the pirao.
  7. Make the pirao: Bring the 2½ cups fish stock, tomato paste, salt, and pepper to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring to blend in the tomato paste. Gradually sprinkle in the manioc flour, stirring constantly until the mixture has the consistency of soft ice cream, about 2 minutes. Immediately transfer the pirao to a warmed serving dish.
  8. To serve, spoon the pirao into deep soup bowls and ladle the stew over it. Pass the preserved peppers sauce on the side.